How far would you drive for a delicious meal? For us, it seems that the answer is more than 2.5 hours. Since Dr L and I decided to drive up to Noosa to try out Kuon Sushi up in the Sunshine Coast. In all honesty it would probably have been better for us to have stayed overnight, but neither of us are particularly interested in the beach, so we drove up for the meal and drove back down, making it roughly a 7 hour return trip just for a dinner. The reason was a belated Valentines day dinner and the allure of a more traditional style of omakase.
Without a doubt my favourite place to be in the world is behind a sushi counter. That is where we spent our evening, enjoying the food of sushi master Jiro. The space was intimate, probably seating a maximum of 10 people but including us there was only 4 people that evening, making it particularly cozy.
For $200, you can indulge in the full 20 course dinner. This is notably cheaper than some of the options you can get in Brisbane where the going rate for full course omakase is roughly at the $300 mark.
Upon seating we were asked as a matter of course if we wanted still or sparkling water. My usual response to this is to query whether sparkling is complimentary. In this instance I had heard that it was but perhaps there was some miscommunication but by the time we paid, there was a charge for sparkling and Dr L's still water on our bill.
There were a few sake options and we opted for a flight each to accompany us through the meal. I don't have too much to add on the sake other than the fact that by the time we had reached the third glass, it was fairly room temperature after having been on the counter for a little bit.
The first four courses of our set meal was served together. This included the pumpkin tofu with bonito broth, yellowfin tuna with japanese yam potato, squid tentacles and mozuku seaweed vinegar soup, deep fried eggplant in dashi. The layout actually reminded me a lot of my experience at Kuon in Sydney. I enjoyed the variety of textures and flavours found across the starters. My favourite of the four would have been the yellowfin with japanese yam.
Unlike other omakase, the nigiri wasn't grouped but rather spread through the course with cooked food throughout. Starting off we had the red snapper nigiri and the big fin reef squid. Both were expertly made and had the perfect ratio of rice to fish. The fish itself was fresh but not to the point of being sweet. I did particularly enjoy the ika though, which had the perfect texture.
Next up was Horse Mackerel nigiri, not usually a favourite of mine but I appreciated the firm flakey flesh with buttery umami taste.
Interluding with two cooked courses we had a steamed abalone and a braised octopus sweet soy sauce. I've had both renditions of these at various Japanese restaurants lately and the execution at Kuon was on par with others that I have sampled but it wasn't particularly outstanding. The abalone was tender and infused well with the sauce, as was the octopus. The portions were just enough to leave me wanting a little more.
Following up with a piece of sweet miso marinated grilled kingfish, this was served nicely charred without being overly burnt. Again the kingfish had great texture to it, but it wasn't outstanding.
Our nigiri course continued with three pieces, salt and vinegar cured herring nigiri and the cured blue mackeral nigiri. Both pieces being cured gave it a particularly sharp and tangy flavour also ensuring that the flesh was firm. Although I'm a huge fan of the dry aged sashimi at Katsuya which accentuates the flavours of the fish, I am generally not a fan of cured fish nigiri as it detracts from the freshness and original tastes of the fish.
The highlight of our meal in my opinion was the cured lean southern bluefin tuna nigiri. Despite my previous rant about curing, I am just a fan of tuna and this was still expertly made. I would probably have enjoyed it better if it was less seasoned but the soy glaze was still enjoyable.
Interluding again with cooked food, this was the deep fried prawn dumpling and red miso soup with fresh aosa seaweed. I didn't particularly like the prawn dumpling too much, it was a minced prawn paste that had been lightly battered and fried, reminding me a bit of Taiwanese tempura which seemed a little out of place in an omakase course. As someone who prefers white miso to red by a wide margin, I didn't mind the red miso with its sharp aftertaste.
The crescendo of our meal was the miniature sea urchin and salmon roe bowl. This was super cute and topped with a few pieces of okra that looked like stars. I've definitely had fresher uni in various restaurants across Brisbane, but this was also an enjoyable rendition. I wish that the portion was a bit bigger though, as it could easily have been finished in three moderate bites.
Our final nigiri of the night was the simmered japanese sea eel nigiri. I always enjoy sea eel which is a lot less commonly served than the standard unagi. The taste was light and delicate, complimenting the sushi rice well.
Rounding off the savoury courses was the thin tuna roll and the egg omelette with bonito broth. I've had both of these items across various restaurants now, they were decidedly superior to your local sushi train variant but not as elevated as the Brisbane or Gold Coast omakase options.
Dessert was a Matcha Warabi mochi, served with hot tea. The mochi was soft and chewy whilst the matcha sauce erred on the sweeter side. It was an overall satisfying dessert to our meal.
It is somewhat hard to critique Kuon Sushi. On one hand, I really appreciate Chef Jiro's dedication to a traditional cooking style and not going for modern fusion like lots of other places. The price is reasonable for what you get, insofar as it is significantly cheaper than Takashiya, Sushi Room or Fumikis, but we didn't leave completely stuffed and it was evident that at least compared to Takashiya or Sushi Room, the ingredients weren't as premium. Factoring in price, I would say a good point of comparison is Black Door by Wagyu ya, who currently offers a far superior (albeit more modern) course for the same price. I wouldn't say that I wouldn't be back, if we were in Noosa again, I wouldn't hesitate for a return trip, but for now I wouldn't be making a 5 hour return trip for it.
Price Range: $200 - $250pp
Taste: 7.5/10
Value: 7/10
Service: 8/10
Environment: 9/10