Tuesday 25 April 2023

Old Monk - Rosalie


Had a friend's birthday dinner a few weeks ago. He was very keen on having Indian food, so his girlfriend booked him into one of his favourite places in town, Old Monk in Rosalie. We were glad to go, having heard so many fantastic reviews of the place.


The dinner was somewhat late and the place wasn't very full, unless you have a very large group, it doesn't seem like you need a reservation. Our long table was set and service was friendly and attentive.

 


The menu was quite extensive, but for large groups, we had the Old Monk Banquet, where everyone was able to order one small plate, one large plate and a side for $45. Depending on what you ordered, this could be notably cheaper than individual pricing.


Staff were amazing when it came to serving, despite a table of 15, each with three courses, they were able to prepare all dishes to arrive roughly at the same time. A lot of our food was shared around, but I will cover what Dr L and I ordered that evening. First up was our serve of Indian Fried Chicken. I wish more people had ordered this dish, because when it got put down, quite a few people had food envy and we were left with one piece each, which goes to show how popular it was. Anyway, the chicken was very flavoursome but not overly spicy. The batter wasn't particularly thick or crispy, but it still had some crunch. We really liked this and would order it again.


Our other small dish was the Hariyali Paneer Tikka, an Indian cottage cheese marinated with coriander, mint along with spices. This was generous in size for a small dish and there were a fair few pieces of cheese. I really enjoyed the chewy, spongey texture of the cheese and the strong hit of herbs and spices.


With such generously sized small dishes, I had high expectations for the large dishes. Sadly, I was left disappointed. After our first course was cleared, second course came fairly quickly. This was the butter chicken. It was without a doubt delicious, with its spicy but creamy tomato base. What definitely could have been better though was the protein content of the dish. As you can see, it was largely comprised of one chicken drumstick, which was fairly small. In fact I would say the portions were fairly akin to the small dishes. This could of course be bulked up with the addition of sides such as rice or roti, but I would definitely have liked more chicken.


Our other large dish was the Lamb Rogan Josh, a Kashmiri style slow cooked lamb with house grounded spices. The flavours were also really well done in this dish, again with some very creamy tomato flavours to the curry, but again there was a severe lack of protein in the bowl. Between the two of us, we only managed one bite size piece of lamb each, which was really not very sufficient. If I had paid for this outside of the course meal, I would be pretty upset to have paid $25 for two small pieces of lamb.


Dr L didn't feel like rice, so our two sides consisted of Butter Naan and Garlic Naan. These were actually huge and were of excellent use mopping up the sauces in our curries. The garlic flavours were notable, especially compared to the butter naan, but it wasn't particularly strong. I did like the textures of the naan, with its flakey layers and elasticity, it was fun ripping it up and dipping it into the curry. Overall we had a good time at Old Monk. Next time we go back we will probably opt for more small dishes and aim for flexibility in ordering, but overall it was a good experience and worth a return visit!

Price Range: $45pp

Taste: 8/10
Value: 6/10
Service: 8/10
Environment: 8/10

Tuesday 18 April 2023

Dough Ma - Upper Mt Gravatt


I feel like I have somewhat missed the doughnut hype which happened in the last several years. Most of the openings were American style, but I've long been curious about Dough Ma, at Upper Mt Gravatt, which offers some more Asian style flavours. The only reason why I hadn't gone earlier was because it was a little bit out of the way, but we finally had our opportunity a few weeks ago.


Arriving early afternoon, I was quite pleased to see that they had many flavours still available, although not in high numbers. Prices were very reasonable, with a 6 pack going for $18.


I was actually very close to getting a six pack, but thought that we better not overspend our calorie budget for the day, instead we had two individual doughnuts to go. Each of them was packed in a separate box to ensure the toppings could get home without too much damage.


The Dr had the Oreo Doughnut. This was stuffed with cookies and cream, topped with oreo as well as some biscoff icing. Although it looked exceptionally decadent, I am pleased to report that having tried some, it wasn't overly sweet. It was a very filling dessert, but the doughnut was light and fluffy. 


I went for the matcha doughnut. It was a lot less adorned than the cookies and cream, but no less tasty. The matcha cream was light in tea flavour but also not very sweet, the texture was very rich and decadent though, contrasting with the light and fluffy doughnut. I find this doughnut to have a more bread-like texture more than a doughnut, but it was still quite enjoyable. I really wish I could have tried more flavours. I'll probably come back next time there is a house party (that I'm not hosting) and need to bring a plate, which would provide a good variety to share around.


Price Range: $5 - $15pp 

Taste: 9/10
Value: 8/10
Service: 7/10
Environment: N/A

Monday 17 April 2023

KatsuYa - Fortitude Valley (2023 Revisit)


There are very few restaurants who can legitimately claim to be booked out a year in advance, however Katsu Ya, my favourite Japanese omakase in Brisbane is one of those places. Their bookings for 2023 opened in October 2022 and I was lucky enough to be able to secure three reservations for their much coveted omakase this year. With only six seats a night and only being open four days a week, reservations are able to be obtained with personal reference from friends and family of Chef Katsu. It is with much joy that I am able to recount my first time back since the new year.


Compared to when we first went, the dining area has since been painted a colourful floral hue that matches the plates. Chef has also infused the kitchen itself with his personality, notably the adorable bear bricks and the sneakers he adores. Like every time I go, everything was set in its place and everything was perfect.


Always making sure to arrive on time, I love having the prime spot at the counter to admire Chef Katsu's cooking.


Treasure show plates were laid out right after everyone arrived. We were definitely in for a treat that night and displaying the fresh produce before we watched them being cooked only further whetted our appetites.


Our first course was the Nannygai Snapper topped with Chives, Salmon Roe, Bottarga. The texture of the snapper was amazing. It was crunchy and smooth with a sweet aftertaste. Combined with the popping salmon pearls and umami of the bottarga, it was a spectacular opening dish.

 


This was the Hokkaido Scallop, Calamari and Sturgeon Caviar. I hadn't had this last  year and it was incredible. The scallops were so fresh that they were unbelievably sweet. Chef Katsu also expertly diced the flesh and removed the skin of the calamari so it was extremely tender and flavoursome without the chewiness of skin. Sturgeon caviar is always delectable and this would probably be my second favourite dish of the night.

 

Sashimi courses came next, first up was the Flathead and Blue Eyed Cod from New Zealand. I have never had flat head as sashimi before and this was surprisingly tender but with a sweet aftertaste that I really enjoyed. The cod was far more firm with a light delicate flavour. Between the two of them, I preferred the flat head. 

 

Our two other sashimi courses were the classic Alpine Salmon and two week dry aged Toro. Compared to regular salmon, Alpine Salmon had a far more clear cut taste without the oily finish to it, although still maintaining a super smooth texture. My favourite sashimi for the night though was of course the dry aged toro with its firm meaty texture and buttery aftertaste.

 


As an encore to the delicious Toro, for the next course, chef made a NegiToro with Wagyu hand roll. As chef introduced the dish, this was indeed the best handroll I've had in my life. I appreciated it particularly after recent less stellar experience in the field. The rice was well seasoned and had a perfect texture. The wagyu was tender with a light charring to it and a melty buttery texture which complimented the toro perfectly. I don't think anything else can top this hand roll. 



Our other hand roll of the evening was the Foie Gras Hand Roll. Also lightly charred and topped with soy and chives, it was rich, buttery and delicate. Although not a regular in Japanese cuisine, it was very complimentary in flavour to the nori and sushi rice. A few of my companions rated this above the negitoro wagyu handroll, but I think that although it was good, it is hard to dethrone the best handroll.

 

Our next two courses were cooked and also more substantial. This was the Toothfish served with Salmon Roe, Bottarga and Dashi. Toothfish seems to be one of the most popular fish recently and this was executed wonderfully, with a lightly charred crust, and a buttery, flakey texture inside. The lightness of the meat ensured that it was a perfect vessel to absorb the fragrant and delicate three hour cooked dashi. Bottarga and Salmon Roe only added more to its umami flavour.


After much anticipation, and the earlier taster in the hand roll, we had the Kagoshima Wagyu served with locally sourced oyster shroom picked on the day. The wagyu was grilled to perfection, allowing for the fat to render and then absorb some of the amazing dashi. The oyster mushrooms were light but still flavoursome, making for a wonderful companion for the beef. 


Rounding off the savoury courses was miso soup with fish, made with love. I have had other miso soups in the past but this was phenomenal. Deep and mellow with different textures of fish, with none of the fishiness, it was everything one could want in a miso soup. I really enjoyed it.



Dessert for the evening was Pineapple topped with Leatherwood honey and a dash of hibiki. The pineapple was fresh and tart, contrasting well with the thick, floral, sweet honey. Adding to this was the nutty, peppery taste of hibiki, giving the dessert a striking kick as it went down. Simple but delicious, it was the perfect dessert to round off the amazing meal.

In a world where first times usually outshine sequels, I have to say that Chef Katsu has stepped up his game in 2023. Although, pricey, it was entirely worth every cent. Chef handled every ingredient masterfully and with respect, every element of cooking was executed to perfection and I cannot wait to come back later in the year.

Price: $250pp (but worth every cent)

Taste: 10/10
Value: 10/10
Service: 10/10
Environment: 10/10

Thursday 13 April 2023

Ippin - West End


In my humble opinion, there can be fewer joys in life than dining with a knowledgeable chef, who can provide insight and commentary on dishes as we eat. I was thrilled to be able to do this when I booked a table to try out the newly opened Ippin, in West Village. During the soft opening period, only a set menu was available and we did go on the first day open to public. We did expect a few hiccups in the service but were quite blown away through the night. To say it was chaotic would be an understatement.



We arrived 10 minutes ahead of our reservation. Despite having more waitstaff than I have ever seen in a medium sized restaurant, no one came to greet us or seat us for a good five minutes. Instead they looked at us nervously and a few even ran away when I smiled or waived at them. Eventually we were seated at the bar. The bartender probably gave us the quickest service we had that evening. Another table of friends who arrived later than us (but had been booked into the same time slot) was given a table long before us, and I had to ask staff ten minutes past my reservation to then be allocated our table. Service throughout the night did not improve and it was a constant struggle to get anyone's attention, despite the plethora of wait staff.


The set menu for the night comprised of eleven courses. The main course was a pick between a dry aged coral trout or a miyazaki wagyu. Menus were provided but no one offered to ask us which of the mains we elected for. Only after about 40 minutes into our seating, was I able to flag down waitstaff to tell them of our selections. 

 



It took well over on hour after our reservation time before the first course came. In the meantime we filled ourselves with drinks. Service was still rusty in this area because two of the three beers served had been mistaken and had to go back and be re-poured. It also needs to be said that while sparkling and still water were complementary, staff did not make any efforts to ask what we were drinking, so throughout the night we were just drinking whichever water it was convenient for them to serve, which was a real shame. Other than this, I enjoyed my friend Chef L's commentary on sake, which was very insightful.


Our first course came out more than one our after our reservation. It was the Bluefin Tuna Toro-taku, served with sea urchin, caviar served atop some puffed nori. This was quite a tasty appetizer, the nori wasn't too oily, it was crispy and the tuna was lightly minced with good fat content. Otherwise the uni was a bit watery and fought the caviar in terms of flavour. 


After another 15 minutes or so, we had the Barramundi served with wasabi leaf san choy bow. This was an odd course because barramundi is not a fish usually found in Japanese cuisine, and the toppings of chili, preserved carrots and fried onion was far more consistent with Vietnamese or Thai cuisine. Having said that, the fish was lightly battered, crisp and tender. 


After another long interlude, the Wagyu Tartare arrived. It was served atop a crispy potato nest with anchovies, oyster and chilli mustard. Having enjoyed my fair share of tartare in my time, I was surprised by this wagyu. It was chilled and minced, however because of this, the fat was not rendered and it was quite hard in my mouth. I suppose wagyu would be better served torched or at least heated to allow for the fat to melt. Otherwise the potato nest was light and crunchy but I didn't like the flavour profile of the anchovies, oyster and mustard accompanying the wagyu. What I also didn't like was staff standing over me to pick up the plate when I hadn't even eaten, so that they could rush the next course. I was barely able to put my chopsticks down and the plate was already whisked away.

 

Our next course was a far more Japanese dish, being a Bonito with Turnip, citrus and a bonito and kelp dashi. This was done quite well, the Bonito was firm but tender and the dashi was delicate but fragrant. Portions were good and it was beautiful, both visually and gastronomically.


After another lengthy wait, our next course, the Sushi and Sashimi came out. In total it comprised of, bass grouper sashimi roll with steamed monkfish liver sauce, Bluefin tuna belly nigiri, Southern calamari & bottarga nigiri, snapper nigiri and a mackerel ginger roll. The cuts of fish were fairly fresh, staff guided us to eat from the left to the right of the dish to enjoy the lighter flavours to the stronger flavours. I enjoyed the delicate bass grouper and the interactive self wrapped rolls. It was a shame though that my tuna belly wasn't otoro but rather a chutoro when everyone else had a fattier cut. The calamari was cut quite roughly in an attempt to make some intricate designs, but aesthetically could have been better. Further to this, the rice was also seasoned very unevenly with some morsels having barely any vinegar whilst some was over seasoned. The actual portions of rice were also quite small and the sizes were inconsistent as well. Overall it was a tasty dish but more attention to detail would have been great.

 

It didn't take too long for our Chawanmushi to arrive. This was topped with Snow crab & crab butter, filled with gingko nuts, chicken and sushi rice. It was unusual compared to others I have had recently, with delicate flavours on the top but a more wholesome and chunky profile underneath. The chicken and rice were substantial but it worked well in this dish.


Next  we had the Tempura Moreton Bay Bug with lemon aioli sauce. This was done really well, the bug was crunchy and firm, lightly battered and piping hot. The sauce was tart and creamy, countering the decadence of tempura batter. We quite enjoyed this dish.


Mains came significantly after. Of our table for four, we had two wagyu and two fish. This was the Miyazaki Wagyu A5 with porcini rub, red wine, soy sauce and aged red vinegar chimichurri. Other than the beef itself, I would be challenged to consider this dish Japanese. The wine, porcini and chimichurri made it definitely a lot more Spanish than Japanese. Portions were a little small, but the beef was quite buttery and tender. I would have liked it to be a bit more cooked to have rendered the fat more, given how thick the slices were but the flavours were quite complimentary, albeit intense.


Our other main was the 48 Hour Dry-Aged Coral Trout served with miso parsley sauce with mussels & potato. We all agreed that although it seemed more like French cuisine, it was the better executed of the two mains. The sauce was definitely moreish and very creamy, complementing the potato very well. The fish was also done well, cooked half through, with a flakey exterior and a smooth interior. I liked how strong the flavours were and the chilli powder it was coated with.


A surprising pick but our favourite of the night was the Truffle Savoy Cabbage. This came warm, lightly charred and had a light hint of truffle. We later found out that the douse of truffle oil was fairly inconsistent across different bowls, some had a lot and some had very little, but it was still a light but substantial side to our mains.

 


Last of the savoury dishes was the Chazuke. It was topped with mixed sashimi, uni, salmon roe and a light dashi broth. The flavours in this dish were done well, the fish was quite fresh, the uni was markedly nicer than the one we had at the start, however the rice was not served hot and neither was the dashi. If it had actually been hot, I would have enjoyed it a lot more.


I was looking forward to our dessert, a Roasted Green Tea Warabi Mochi with vanilla ice cream and crunchy caramelised walnut. Unfortunately, there was almost no green tea taste and I'm not sure that the two squares were mochi. Mochi has a chewy, stretchy texture with a bit of bite, this was something like a soft jelly that was just tender and easy to cut into pieces. I also was a bit disappointed at how the vanilla ice cream looked, especially after having seen professionals scoop ice cream smoothly and elegantly. Having said that, the flavours were complimentary and it made for a reasonably satisfying dessert.

Overall, I'd have to say that my experience at Ippin was fairly disappointing. Dr L who has been watching Hell's Kitchen for sometime now commented that they definitely need Gordon Ramsay to step in and run the place more smoothly. I do note some comments I have received about this being a soft launch and to be more forgiving in not expecting everything to be perfect, however given my detailed experiences, I can say that this was a long way away from being perfect and a lot more attention needs to be given to the menu, the execution and staff training. It also needs to have a level of quality before going out to the public. Having said that, I am glad that I went during the soft launch, because it represented fairly good value for the food we had, but if I had come back during full price, I would definitely have considered it a rip off. In light of the competitive Japanese dining scene in Brisbane, they definitely have many improvements to make.

For those of you who have reached this point, it is also noteworthy that my unsavoury experience didn't even end after we had left the restaurant that night (after a 3.5 hour sitting). My friend who paid for the meal by card had his payment go through, and then it bounced later. None of us realised this until I received a debt collection email the day after. After comparing notes with a few local foodies, it turns out that roughly half the payments had bounced off their system, so they are undoubtedly trying to recover all of this. After attempting to call back and email back to arrange payment on the same day, there has still to be any further contact from management, which again highlights the chaotic nature of this establishment. 

Price Range: $118pp (plus drinks) during soft launch, $168pp post launch

Taste: 6.5/10
Value: 6/10
Service: 2/10
Environment: 8/10