There are very few restaurants who can legitimately claim to be booked out a year in advance, however Katsu Ya, my favourite Japanese omakase in Brisbane is one of those places. Their bookings for 2023 opened in October 2022 and I was lucky enough to be able to secure three reservations for their much coveted omakase this year. With only six seats a night and only being open four days a week, reservations are able to be obtained with personal reference from friends and family of Chef Katsu. It is with much joy that I am able to recount my first time back since the new year.
Compared to when we first went, the dining area has since been painted a colourful floral hue that matches the plates. Chef has also infused the kitchen itself with his personality, notably the adorable bear bricks and the sneakers he adores. Like every time I go, everything was set in its place and everything was perfect.
Always making sure to arrive on time, I love having the prime spot at the counter to admire Chef Katsu's cooking.
Treasure show plates were laid out right after everyone arrived. We were definitely in for a treat that night and displaying the fresh produce before we watched them being cooked only further whetted our appetites.
Our first course was the Nannygai Snapper topped with Chives, Salmon Roe, Bottarga. The texture of the snapper was amazing. It was crunchy and smooth with a sweet aftertaste. Combined with the popping salmon pearls and umami of the bottarga, it was a spectacular opening dish.
This was the Hokkaido Scallop, Calamari and Sturgeon Caviar. I hadn't had this last year and it was incredible. The scallops were so fresh that they were unbelievably sweet. Chef Katsu also expertly diced the flesh and removed the skin of the calamari so it was extremely tender and flavoursome without the chewiness of skin. Sturgeon caviar is always delectable and this would probably be my second favourite dish of the night.
Sashimi courses came next, first up was the Flathead and Blue Eyed Cod from New Zealand. I have never had flat head as sashimi before and this was surprisingly tender but with a sweet aftertaste that I really enjoyed. The cod was far more firm with a light delicate flavour. Between the two of them, I preferred the flat head.
Our two other sashimi courses were the classic Alpine Salmon and two week dry aged Toro. Compared to regular salmon, Alpine Salmon had a far more clear cut taste without the oily finish to it, although still maintaining a super smooth texture. My favourite sashimi for the night though was of course the dry aged toro with its firm meaty texture and buttery aftertaste.
As an encore to the delicious Toro, for the next course, chef made a NegiToro with Wagyu hand roll. As chef introduced the dish, this was indeed the best handroll I've had in my life. I appreciated it particularly after recent less stellar experience in the field. The rice was well seasoned and had a perfect texture. The wagyu was tender with a light charring to it and a melty buttery texture which complimented the toro perfectly. I don't think anything else can top this hand roll.
Our other hand roll of the evening was the Foie Gras Hand Roll. Also lightly charred and topped with soy and chives, it was rich, buttery and delicate. Although not a regular in Japanese cuisine, it was very complimentary in flavour to the nori and sushi rice. A few of my companions rated this above the negitoro wagyu handroll, but I think that although it was good, it is hard to dethrone the best handroll.
Our next two courses were cooked and also more substantial. This was the Toothfish served with Salmon Roe, Bottarga and Dashi. Toothfish seems to be one of the most popular fish recently and this was executed wonderfully, with a lightly charred crust, and a buttery, flakey texture inside. The lightness of the meat ensured that it was a perfect vessel to absorb the fragrant and delicate three hour cooked dashi. Bottarga and Salmon Roe only added more to its umami flavour.
After much anticipation, and the earlier taster in the hand roll, we had the Kagoshima Wagyu served with locally sourced oyster shroom picked on the day. The wagyu was grilled to perfection, allowing for the fat to render and then absorb some of the amazing dashi. The oyster mushrooms were light but still flavoursome, making for a wonderful companion for the beef.
Rounding off the savoury courses was miso soup with fish, made with love. I have had other miso soups in the past but this was phenomenal. Deep and mellow with different textures of fish, with none of the fishiness, it was everything one could want in a miso soup. I really enjoyed it.
Dessert for the evening was Pineapple topped with Leatherwood honey and a dash of hibiki. The pineapple was fresh and tart, contrasting well with the thick, floral, sweet honey. Adding to this was the nutty, peppery taste of hibiki, giving the dessert a striking kick as it went down. Simple but delicious, it was the perfect dessert to round off the amazing meal.
In a world where first times usually outshine sequels, I have to say that Chef Katsu has stepped up his game in 2023. Although, pricey, it was entirely worth every cent. Chef handled every ingredient masterfully and with respect, every element of cooking was executed to perfection and I cannot wait to come back later in the year.
Price: $250pp (but worth every cent)
Taste: 10/10
Value: 10/10
Service: 10/10
Environment: 10/10
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